Research Catalog

Title

Threads of power : lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen / edited by Emma Cormack and Michele Majer.

Author

Textilmuseum St. Gallen, organizer, owner. orm own

Publication

• New York : Bard Graduate Center, [2022]
• New Haven ; London : Yale University Press
• Belgium : Graphius
• ©2022

Items in the Library & Off-site

Details

Additional Authors

• Cormack, Emma
• Majer, Michele
• Kos, Ilona
• Karl, Barbara
• Grey, Laura
• Bard Graduate Center Gallery, organizer, host institution. orm his
• Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design, and Culture, publisher, copyright holder. pbl cph

Description

xiv, 418 pages : illustrations (chiefly color); 27 cm

Summary

"Threads of Power: Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen' offers a look at one of the world's finest collections of historical lace. It traces the development of European lace from its emergence in the sixteenth century to the present, elucidating its important role in fashion. The book explores the longstanding connections between lace and status, addressing styles in lace worn at royal courts, including Habsburg Spain and Bourbon France, as well as lace worn by the elite ruling classes and Indigenous peoples in the Spanish Americas. Featuring new research, the publication covers a range of topics related to lace production, lace in fashion and portraiture, lace revivals, the mechanization of the lace industries in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, and contemporary innovations in lace. With a focus on lace techniques, women lace makers, and lace as a signifier of wealth and power, this richly illustrated book includes wide-ranging contributions by curators and experts from major museums and academic institutions"--

Uniform Title

Lace and status

Alternative Title

• Lace and status
• Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen

Subject

• Textilmuseum St. Gallen > Exhibitions
• Textilmuseum St. Gallen
• Lace and lace making > History > Exhibitions
• Lace industry > History > Exhibitions
• Lace craft > History > Exhibitions
• Lace and lace making > Europe > History > Exhibitions
• Lace and lace making > Latin America > History > Exhibitions
• Lace and lace making
• Lace craft
• Lace industry
• Europe
• Latin America

Genre/Form

• History.
• Exhibition catalogs.

Note

• "Published in conjunction with the exhibition Threads of Power: Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen, organized by Bard Graduate Center and the Textilmuseum St. Gallen, and held at Bard Graduate Center Gallery from September 16, 2022, to January 1, 2023."
• "A previous iteration of Threads of Power: Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen was titled Lace and Status: The Collection of Historical Lace in the Textilmuseum St. Gallen. It was curated by Barbara Karl and was on display at the Textilmuseum St. Gallen from October 26, 2018, to February 10, 2019."

Bibliography (note)

• Includes bibliographical references (pages 395-404) and index.

Language (note)

• In English; three essays translated and expanded from the original German.

Contents

Director's foreword / Susan Weber -- Editors' note -- Introduction : threads of power / Emma Cormack and Michele Majer -- The emergence of lace in early modern Europe. 1. Lace and status : luxury, power, and control in early modernity / Barbara Karl ; 2. Putting a name to a lace : fashion, fame, and the production of printed textile pattern books / Femke Speelberg ; 3. "Monstrous ruffs" and elegant trimmings : lace and lacemaking in early modern Italy / Paula Hohti ; 4. Antwerp, a center of lacemaking and lace dealing, 1550-1750 / Frieda Sorber -- Fashion and lace in Spain and the Americas, 1500-1800. 5. The triumph of lace : Spanish portraiture in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries / Amalia Descalzo Lorenzo ; 6. "A desire of being distinguished by an elegant dress is universal" : clothing, status, and convenience in eighteenth-century Spanish America / Mariselle Meléndez ; 7. "A prodigious excess" : lace in New Spain and Peru, ca. 1600-1800 / James Middleton ; 8. "Covered in much fine lace" : dress in the viceroyalty of New Granada / Laura Beltrán-Rubio -- The dominance of France, 1660-1790. 9. Lace, an economic factor in France during the reign of Louis XIV / Denis Bruna ; 10. Lace à la mode in France, ca. 1690-1790 / Lesley Ellis Miller -- Mechanization and revivalism in the lace industries, 1800-1925. 11. Fashion and the lace industries in France, Belgium, and England, 1800-1900 / Emma Cormack and Michele Majer ; 12. Ahead of the curve : A. Blackborne & Co. and the late nineteenth-century British lace industry / Annabel Bonnin Talbot ; 13. Italy to New York : making historic textiles modern at the Scuola d'Industrie Italiane / Emily Zilber ; 14. A source of inspiration : the Leopold Iklé collection in St. Gallen / Anne Wanner-JeanRichard and Ilona Kos -- Innovations in lace, 1900 to today. 15. Fashion and lace since 1900 / Catherine Örmen ; 16. Lace in St. Gallen today : tradition and innovation at Forster Rohner and Jakob Schlaepfer / Introduction by Annina Dosch ; Interview with Tobias Forster, Martin Leuthold, and Hans Schreiber -- Illustrated checklist of the exhibition -- Glossary / compiled by Kenna Libes.

Call Number

JQF 23-484

ISBN

• 9780300263497
• 030026349X

LCCN

2022940720

OCLC

1344291604

Author

Textilmuseum St. Gallen, organizer, owner. Organizer. Owner

Title

Threads of power : lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen / edited by Emma Cormack and Michele Majer.

Publisher

New York : Bard Graduate Center, [2022]

Distributor

New Haven ; London : Yale University Press

Manufacturer

Belgium : Graphius

Copyright Date

©2022

Type of Content

text

still image

Type of Medium

unmediated

Type of Carrier

volume

Bibliography

Includes bibliographical references (pages 395-404) and index.

Language

In English; three essays translated and expanded from the original German.

Added Author

Cormack, Emma, editor, author, curator. Editor. Author. Curator

Majer, Michele, editor, author, curator. Editor. Author. Curator

Kos, Ilona, author, curator. Author. Curator

Karl, Barbara, author. Author

Grey, Laura, book designer. Book designer

Bard Graduate Center Gallery, organizer, host institution. Organizer. Host institution

Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design, and Culture, publisher, copyright holder. Publisher. Copyright holder

Research Call Number

JQF 23-484