Research Catalog

Title

Beaches and coasts / by Cuchlaine A.M. King.

Author

King, Cuchlaine A. M.

Publication

London : Edward Arnold, 1959.

Items in the Library & Off-site

Details

Description

xii, 403 pages : illustrations, maps; 23 cm

Subject

• Beaches
• Coasts
• Waves
• Bathing beaches
• beaches
• bathing beaches
• coastal environments
• coastlines
• Bathing beaches
• Beaches
• Coasts
• Waves
• Küste
• Küstenmorphologie

Bibliography (note)

• Includes bibliographical references and index.

Contents

Ch 1. THE MAIN FACTORS ON WHICH THE CHARACTER OF THE BEACH DEPENDS -- 1. Beach material -- a. Character of material -- b. Source of material -- 2. Waves -- a. Length, velocity and period -- b. Height -- c. Steepness -- d. Form -- e. Energy -- f. Orbital velocity and mass transport -- g. Growth -- h. Decay -- i. Changes in shallow water ; i. Length, period and velocity ; ii. Height ; iii. Steepeness ; iv. Energy ; v. Orbital velocity and mass transport ; vi. Type of breakers ; vii. Breaking on walls, cliffs, etc. ; viii. Refraction ; ix. Longshore currents -- 3. Tides -- a. Tide producing forces -- b. Types of wave motion in tides -- c. Effect of the earth's gyration (amphidromic systems) -- d. Oceanic tides -- e. Tides around the British Isles -- f. Shallow water effects -- g. Tidal streams -- 4. Winds -- Ch 2. METHODS OF RESEARCH -- 1. Theoretical -- 2. Experimental -- a. Scale problems -- b. Model laws -- c. Description of model apparatus -- 3. Field observations -- a. Nomenclature -- b. Problems considered -- 4. Historical data -- Ch. 3. WAVES -- 1. Waves in deep water : ideal waves -- 2. Wave generation -- a. Theory : Jeffreys, Sverdrup and Munk, Eckart, Phillops -- b. Wave propagation and decay -- c. Empirical formulae and wave forecasting : Sverdup and Munk, Bretschneider, attenuation, Neumann, Roll and Fischer, Darbyshire, attenuation -- d. Wave observation, wave recording methods -- 3. Wave refraction diagrams -- a. Method of construction of wave refraction diagrams -- b. Results of wave refraction and other methods of showing refraction -- 4. Waves in shallow water -- a. Changes in wave height -- b. Water movement and mass transport of shallow water -- c. Water velocity in shallow water and breakers -- d. Surf beat or long waves -- e. Longshore currents -- i. Theory -- ii. Model experiments -- iii. Field observations -- Ch. 4. MOVEMENT OF MATERIAL ON THE BEACH -- 1. Movement of material normal to the shore -- a. Model experiments -- i. Sand movement outside the break-point -- ii. Sand movement inside the break-point -- iii. Ripple formation -- b. Observations in nature -- i. Ripples -- ii. Depth of movement -- iii. Seasonal and tidal changes -- iv. Sand in suspension -- 2. Longshore movement of material -- a. Theory -- b. Model studies -- c. Observations -- i. Sand beaches -- ii. Shingle -- 3. Material grading -- a. Methods of description -- b. Sampling methods -- 4. Sorting of beach materials -- a. Theory -- b. Model experiments -- c. Observations -- i. Sorting normal to the shore -- ii. Sorting parallel to the shore -- 5. Depth of disturbance of sand by waves -- Ch. 5. BEACH PROFILES : EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS AND SURVEYING TECHNIQUES -- 1. Experimental results -- a. Effect of the material -- b. Effect of wave characteristics and the tide -- c. Breaking-point bars. Storm profile -- i. Wave height -- ii. Wave length or period -- iii. Wave steepness -- iv. Beach gradient -- v. Change in wave type -- vi. Change in water level -- e. Time required to reach equilibrium in a model tank -- 2. Beach surveys -- a. Surveys above low tide level -- b. Surveys below low tide level -- c. Accuracy and use of profiles -- d. Amount of change in successive profiles -- 3. Offshore banks -- Ch. 6. THE EFFECT OF WIND -- 1. Model experiments with an onshore wind -- a. Water circulation -- b. Ground Perspex experiments -- c. Movement of sand under wind and wave action -- i. Volume and direction of movement -- ii. Effect on the beach profiles -- 2. Observations in nature -- 3. Coastal dunes -- a. Types of coastal dunes -- b. U-dunes and their orientation -- c. Transverse and longitudinal dunes -- Ch. 7. CLASSIFICATION OF BEACHES AND COASTS -- 1. Classification of beaches -- 2. Classification of coasts -- a. D.W. Johnson -- b. F.P. Shepard -- c. C.A. Cotton -- d. H Valentin -- Ch. 8. CONSTRUCTIVE WAVE ACTION AND COASTAL ACCRETION -- 1. Constructive action in profile : the beach -- a. Effect of material -- b. Effect of waves, wind and other forces -- c. Offshore zone -- d. Summer beaches -- 2. Constructive action in plan : the coast -- a. Coasts straightened by marine deposition -- i. Barriers and spits -- ii. Beaches and forelands -- b. Coasts made irregular by marine deposition -- c. Salt marshes -- d. Coastal reclamation -- e. The time factor -- f. Effect of sea-level changes -- Ch. 9. DESTRUCTIVE WAVE ACTION AND COASTAL EROSION -- 1. Destructive action in profile : beach, cliff and rock platform -- a. Effect of waves, wind and other forces -- b. Destructive wave action on the beach -- i. Shingle -- ii. Sand -- c. Storm surges -- d. Erosion of solid rocks by the sea : shore platforms -- 2. Destructive marine action in plan : coastal erosion -- a. Causes of coastal erosion -- i. Part played by the beach -- ii. Character of the coast -- iii. Longshore movement -- iv. Sea-level changes -- b. Rates of coastal erosion -- Ch. 10. BEACH GRADIENT AND BEACH PROFILES -- 1. Beach gradient -- a. Size of materia -- b. Wave length -- c. Wave steepness -- d. The equilibrium gradient -- 2. Beach profiles : sand bars, ridges, and barriers, and shingle barriers -- a. Smooth profiles -- b. Submarine bars -- i. Character -- ii. Distribution -- iii. Formation and movement of submarine bars -- iv. Crescentic submarine bars -- c. Ridge and runnel profiles : parallel to the shore -- i. Characterisitics -- ii. Comparison with model beach profiles -- iii. Distribution of ridge and runnel beaches -- iv. Formation of ridge and runnel beaches -- v. Ridge and runnel beaches where the ridges and runnels are not parallel to the shore -- d. Barrier beach or island (offshore bar) -- i. Shingle barriers -- ii. Sand barriers -- Ch. 11. HISTORICAL DATA ON COASTAL CHANGE -- 1. Evidence of maps -- 1. Other evidence of coastal change -- a. Erosion coast : Lincolnshire -- b. Coast of accretion : Dungeness area -- Ch. 12. COASTAL TYPES AND THEIR DEVELOPMENT : THE MARINE CYCLE -- 1. Shore features and development of steep indented coasts -- a. The initial form and modifying processes -- b. Modification produced -- i. By erosion -- ii. By deposition -- iii. Maturity -- 2. Flat coasts -- a. Method of formation -- b. Modifying processes -- c. Modification of the initial coast : youth -- d. Maturity -- 3. The penultimate and ultimate stages of the cycle of marine erosion.

ISBN

• 0713156090
• 9780713156096

LCCN

60000506

OCLC

• ocm09678617
• 9678617
• SCSB-234584

Owning Institutions

Princeton University Library